How to Replace a FUHR 2-Hook Sliding Door Lock
NOTE: This is a tutorial on how to replace a FUHR 2-hook sliding door lock (part # 40213 and # 40211) with a HOPPE 2-hook lock.
We carry both of these locks. If your FUHR lock is broken, a direct replacement can be purchased through us. The HOPPE functions a litle bit differently than the FUHR lock, and some customers have elected to replace their FUHR with the HOPPE for that reason.
The FUHR lock extends most of, if not the whole, way up the edge of the moving panel. Once the door is closed, the lock automatically engages. To open the door, the handle must be lifted. If the thumbturn is turned to the locked position while the door is closed, the door cannot be opened even if the handle is turned.
The HOPPE lock does not lock automatically when the door closes. The handle is stationary and is simply used to pull the door open and closed. Once the door is closed, turning the thumbturn effectively engages the locking hooks and secures the door in the locked position.
Replacing a Fuhr 2-Hook Sliding Door Lock
- Loosen the set screw on the interior sliding door handle until you can pull it off the spindle. From the outside, remove the other handle (with spindle attached).
- On the edge of the sliding door, remove the cylinder screw, which is located approximately 5-1/2 inches below the central locking post.
- Make sure the thumbturn of the cylinder is turned to the “unlocked” position and remove the cylinder through the interior side of the door. When cylinder is locked, cam points up and cylinder won’t fit through the hole. When cylinder is unlocked, cam is pointing down.
- Unscrew the interior and exterior escutcheon plates, and remove them from the door.
- The lock runs up and down most, if not all, the length of the edge of the door. Remove all screws, and slip the lock out of the door.
- On the door frame, remove all the screws securing the strike plate in place, and remove the strike plate from the door frame. We include a new strike plate in our kit #4990260 when you install the new lock, because the hooks are in different locations.
- The new lock does not have moving/operating handles like the original lock, and opposite the original lock, the new HOPPE lock features the thumbturn above the handle. The spindle of the new handleset will line up with the spindle hole of the original handleset. Hold the new lock up to the door so the spindle holes line up. Make sure lock is going the correct direction; hooks should be pointing up and word “HOPPE” should be right-side-up.
- Mark on the face and edge of the door the locations and measurements of the lock body and each of the hooks. You will need to create new mortises for these features in the edge of the door. Note: When mortising out the door edge, it may help to measure the depth of the lock body and the hook locking mechanisms so you can then measure that same depth on your drill bit. Mark the depth on your drill with a piece of tape, so you can keep track of how deep into the door you’re drilling.
- Fill in the original holes so you have something to drill your new lock into.
- The new lock is shorter than the original and has rounded ends. We suggest using a hacksaw to trim off the curved ends and screwing in pieces of filler faceplate (included in kit #4990260) after installing your new lock to fill the shallow full-length mortise left by the original lock.
- Once the lock has been installed the full length of the door, stick the new HOPPE escutcheon plate (included in part #2081959) with attached spindle through the interior side of the door. Mark where screw holes need to be drilled.
- Drill screw holes and install escutcheon plates. Check the operation of the lockwith the door open Note: The new lock has an anti-slam device so that the locking hooks cannot be extended if the door isn’t closed. Depress this small black button near the center of the lock with your finger and turn the thumbturn. If hooks extend correctly, finish installing the handles.
- Now we need to make sure the lock has something to lockinto. The original FUHR strikeplate’s holes for the hooks are in the wrong places for the new hooks. If the original strike plate is a flat metal piece (instead of a U, channel-shaped piece), install the new strike plate (included in kit #4990260) so that the center line and logo on the strike plate match up directly with the center line and logo on the lock in the moving door panel.
- If yor original lock had a U-shaped channel strike, you need to be able to raise the flat strike plate within the mortise so that it is flush with the door jamb like the original was. The easiest way we’ve found to do this is to install blocks of wood up and down the mortise to screw the flat strike plate into. The wood blocks need to be cut to the same depth and width of the original strike (minus the 2mm thickness of the flat strike to be screwed into it). Do not screw a block into the jamb where a hook is supposed to hit.
- Make sure hook holes are lined up with hooks in locks. Note: Hooks move upwards, so alignment and space for hooks needs to be measured while anti-slam device is depressed and hooks are engaged.
- Install strike plate.
- Use a ruler to measure the depth of the hole where the hooks engage. Is there enough room for the hooks to properly engage? If there isn’t, mark how deep the mortise needs to be, remove the strike plate and chisel out additional space for the hooks. If you have done this, replace the strike plate, making sure it still lines up correctly.
- Regardless of what type of strike you have installed, carefully check the alignment of the strikeplate. Slide the door almost shut. Without shutting it, depress the anti-slam device and eyeball the alignment of the hooks with the holes in the strike. Note: If this is off and you manage to engage the locks, it could be difficult to get the door open.
- Use extra filler faceplate to cover up any exposed mortise in the door jamb from the original strike plate.
Special thanks to Robb K. for helping us with this tutorial.